![]() This is not a benefit, and the sudden change in aperture value during zooming can be frustrating. Variable-aperture lenses, unlike constant-aperture lenses, have a reduced relative aperture as the focal length increases. This maximum aperture is stated on the lens along with the focal length value or zoom range. There is a big difference between the aperture and light-gathering ability of a 35 mm f/2.8 lens and a 200 mm f/2.8 lens.Īlthough lenses have a maximum aperture, which is either constant or variable throughout the focal length range, lenses with aperture blades can be reduced in diameter during the exposure. The relative aperture, relative to the focal length, is the f/n ratio. The aperture is the diameter of the objective, measured in some unit length. Faster zooms with constant maximum apertures like f/4 or f/2.8 are also available-these will have the same maximum aperture throughout their range but will also be bigger, heavier and of coursemore expensive. It can also be stopped down to f/8, f/11 or whatever from anywhere in its range. In this case the lens would have a maximum aperture of f/5 at the shorter end of its range and a maximum aperture of f/6.3 when it is zoomed all the way out. The zoom you describe, the f/5- 6.3, has a maximum aperture that varies with how far it is zoomed. Both the lenses described above can be used at f/3.2, f/8, f/11, or whatever, down to their minimum aperture. They can all be "stopped down" to smaller apertures, usually to f/22. The second lens has a larger maximum aperture than the first and will be described as "faster".īut the number on the lens is the maximum aperture only. An f/1.4 lens has a maximum aperture of f/1.4. An f/2.8 lens has a maximum aperture of f/2.8. Lens "speeds" are defined by their largest or maximum aperture. Ok so if I understand what you said Apathyman, the higher the number is actually less? F22 is lower than the maximum of say 2.8? So for example if my image is to bright I would raise the number from say 7.1 to 11 or further to 16 to let in less light? Some more expensive zooms can have the same maximum aperture throughout the zoom range. The user can still set a smaller aperture (up to f16 or 22, say) for that lens. ![]() For a 5-6.3 zoom, the maximum aperture will be 5 at the short end of the zoom range and 6.3 at the long end. With a zoom lens, the two F values indicate the maximum lens opening at the shortest and longest ends of the lens' zoom range. A user can choose to set the lens aperture at any value between that maximum (say 2.8) and the minimum opening (which is usually f22 but may be f16 or 32 depending on the lens). The F- number printed on the lens is the maximum aperture (largest opening) that the lens is capable of. So is this really the two being called the same thing when one is actually the lens aperture and the cameras setting f stop? But he changed the Fstop in the camera a couple times to make the "body more sensitive to light." Now the last video I watched said the lens aperture changes with the zoom. what the camera settings for what I've understood to be the same thing? Both are the aperture setting? (amount of light being let in during the shot). So can someone explain what the Lens numbers mean vs. then why is the lens only a 2.8?Īnother example, the lens I have coming is 5-6.3 but on some of the commentary I've seen when others shoot with this lens they say they are using F11? I thought it only had a range of 5-6.3? But I'm baffled.įor instance on a lens that has a 2.8 aperture it's always at 2.8 but you can change the camera to F 7.1 or 11. Glass only is often acceptable, even shooting at a steep angle, but through a screen is simply not worth the effort.Ok, first off, I'm obviously as Noob as you get so I've been out watching video after video to try to familiarize myself with settings and what setting does what to the image. I have come to the conclusion it is simply not worth shooting through a screen, regardless of the direction or amount of light. I have encountered the same problem at my weekend retreat. Another is you could arrange a small section to be opened, as and when necessary, through which you shoot. One alternative may be to replace the one or more screen panels with a pane of glass, which will cause far less issues than a screen, but is still not optimal. And, the direction of the light will impact the quality of your capture Depending on the screen you may also get something akin to flare, as light is reflected of the wire / thread. Even then, the capture is still likely to be blurred. This will prevent the screen from becoming the plane of focus, but may still defeat AF from locking on the subject. One method of dealing with these opportunities is to have the screen closer than the MFD of the lens being used.
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